Gandhinagar: An Unexpected Food Trip

Food, Gandhinagar, Travel

On November 7, Mansi and I ventured out to Gandhinagar, the capital city of Gujarat. Set about 20 kilometers from Ahmadabad  this small town is a weird place. I’ll tell you why soon enough.

The evening of the 7th was a very eventful one. The bus that we had booked from Mumbai was delayed by about an hour and a half. So much so, that along with a few other passengers who were supposed to be on that bus, we were sitting on the roadside, on the curb, smoking and talking about how beautiful life was, while the others around us fumed and yelled into their phones, cursing the driver of the bus, which was stuck somewhere in the heart of Mumbai in incurable traffic. Finally, when the bus arrived, it wasn’t the bus that was supposed to take us to Gandhinagar. This was a temporary make-shift bus, one that was already filled with passengers for some other destination, into which we were herded and told to stand in available nooks or sit on someone’s lap, until we were dropped to Borivali, where the actual bus was waiting for us. A lot of fighting and raised voices and heated tempers later, we were deposited into our rightful bus, two hours behind schedule, and finally, at a quarter to midnight, with the start of the journey delayed by 2 hours and 15 minutes, we began the journey. Mansi had the distinct honor of relieving herself by the roadside in the middle of the night while I stood guard, while the driver of the bus and the few passengers who were awake and still angry about the delay glared at us, but apart from that, it was an uneventful ride.

Dhokas and Poha at Heritage House

Dhokas and Poha at Heritage House

We reached Ahmadabad around 10 in the morning, and we met up with Mansi’s friends – Vishesh and his wife Dimpi – who courteously allowed us to use their bathroom to freshen up. At our request for authentic Gujarati breakfast, my new found friends took us to the Heritage Hotel in the heart of the city – a quaint, elegant place that was a perfect marriage of opulence and culture. We had the most amazing breakfast where we feasted on dhoklas and poha and washed it all down with the best masala tea I’ve ever tasted. It was and still is a breakfast to kill for. I dream about it sometimes…

Mansi and I then said goodbye to the lovely couple and took an auto rickshaw to make the 20 kilometer journey to Gandhinagar. We traveled on some very well-maintained roads and with the excellent meal settling into our systems, we were eagerly awaiting a weekend of more fun with my cousin and our host-to-be, Kruthika. We arrived at her place in Info City a little after 2 in the afternoon, and changed into comfortable clothes and settled down for a nice catching-up session with piping hot chai.

Hole in the wall at IIM Ahmadabad

Hole in the wall at IIM Ahmadabad

Kruthika was also hosting another friend of hers – Jeanne – a mathematician who had come from Chennai to spend a few days with her. We spent the evening roaming around Info City, where the most prevalent object is an eatery. There was absolutely nothing else for us to do than visit one hotel after another, checking out what was on offer and eating it. We made the trip to Ahmadabad in the night to visit the IIM Ahmadabad campus and to have a cup of tea in the world famous hole-in-the-wall. It literally is a hole. In a wall. A hole through which a street vendor passes tea and cigarettes (a contraband) to the students of the university. Pretty neat, huh!

Mansi and her DSLR

Mansi and her DSLR

On Sunday, the four of us made our way to the step wells of Adalaj, a few minutes away from where Kruthika was staying. Mansi went completely mad with her camera, clicking away the magnificent architecture and playing with the lights and the shadows. I did a half decent job myself, with my phone’s camera.

Back in Info City, we packed up, walked over to another eatery and ate mouthwatering dabeli and other kinds of chats, and after a lot of burping, it was finally time to say goodbye to my cousin and Jeanne. They were sweet enough to wait with us for our bus and waved us off once we had gotten in. It was a very interesting trip to say the least. We expected to do a lot of wacky things that weekend and we ended up putting on a couple of kilos each with all the food that we managed to eat. It turned out to be a very unexpected food trip!

Blazing through food

Old Bangalore Food Trails

Bangalore, Food, Travel

Blazing through foodBangalore for me had always been either an official pitstop or a gateway into the magical ruins of Hampi. I had no particular memories of this IT city apart from Koshy’s and Blossom Bookshop, which satiated my fascination for the old-world. In contrast this trip lived upto my expectations as a traveler, old-world connoisseur and pseudo South Indian. For all you people who love to travel and feel that “tourist” is a swear word, here is a list of things that made Bangalore a city to remember:

Staying with the locals – Nikhil’s home in Bangalore became home for two days. And in India, feeling at home at someone else’s home involves a lot of food. Prepared by the extremely warm Kumar couple (Nikhil’s parents), the food made me cheat on my diet for two days. Everything from upma, bisi bele bath and dosas, to the good old sambhar-chawal made me a happy stuffed soul. This apart, stories from the past about how the city transformed from being a pensioners’ paradise to an IT hub; the local market which has more jewelry stores than cows and MTR restaurants; the local school where Nikhil played cricket and after the game looked forward to resting his tired bones with a Frederick Forsyth.

Nikhil, Nitin and I on the terrace

Nikhil, Nitin and I on the terrace

Terrace diaries – For a person who has grown up in suburban Delhi where open spaces like a balcony and a terrace is not a luxury but hygiene, getting used to Mumbai’s pigeon holes was a task. This trip made me re-live the feeling of abundance; every heavy meal was followed by filter coffee and cigarette on the terrace.

 

Food at the old city – Next up is the classic local cuisine that can be best experienced in the old parts of the city rather than restaurants claiming to serve the authentic. Malleshwaram is one such cocoon nestled in the north-western district of Bangalore city, which has a large Hindu population due to the number of temples. So here is a round-up all things tasty and divine in the good old city of Bangalore:

Raghvendra Store

Crunchy vadas at Raghavendra Stores

Raghvendra Stores, outside Malleshwaram Railway Station – Go for crunchy vadas and spicy coconut chutney. Be ready to push your way through the early morning breakfast crowd. The best part is you will not have to wait for a table because there are none.

Butter Masala Dosas at CTR

Butter Masala Dosas at CTR

 

CTR Shri Sagar, Margosa Road – Crispy Benne Masala dosa and filter coffee that will leave your mouth with crunchy unadulterated butter. While we waited for our orders we were busy checking out pooris and upma floating on other tables

 

 

 

Varriar Bakery in all it's yummy glory

Varriar Bakery in all it’s yummy glory

Varriar bakery, Rajajinagar – If you are the kind who loves desserts that are not overdone with cream and decorations, but are simple and full of rich taste, then this is the place to be. For a “Charlie and the chocolate factory” experience, sneak in from the back and you will see trolleys full of baked eateries. The bakery has a range of egg and eggless cakes with exotic flavors from blueberry to orange chocolate to vanilla Bavarian. After all the sweetness, spice-up your taste with spicy snacks like chicken rolls, sandwiches, burger and biscuits.

 

NIkhil and I at Chai Point

NIkhil and I at Chai Point

Chai Point – Cross the road from Varriar and digest all the food with the milky masala tea at Chai Point

In another post, sometime, I am going to write what is it about Bangalore that changed my life and unlike food, this will stay with me “till the end of time”. Stay tuned. 🙂