Gokarna Om Beach Chai Around The World Nikhil Kumar Mansi Pal

Travel: Too Much Inspiration, Too Little Courage

Inspirations

For anyone who loves to travel, there’s always that little voice in the back of their minds that keeps telling them to quit their comfortable job and explore the world. Lots of people have done it. There’s enough and more inspiration on the internet to convince anyone that it’s a wonderful idea. Shivya Nath has done it and she continues to be a source of inspiration for us. Every time I speak to her, I am distinctly aware of the fact that there’s this ocean of wisdom separating us. Wisdom that’s only accrued over time, in different parts of the world. Jinna Yang did it, and she’s been a wonderful comfort for me on days where I feel like I’m just about ready to give up and catch the next flight out to anywhere. I’m sure Jinna doesn’t know me, but I owe her a lot.

These are people who have braved it, but not stupidly. Quitting one’s high-paying job means relinquishing that safety net of a paycheck at the end of the month. If you have taken it for granted, then you haven’t experienced penury like I have. I once survived for more than a month with 8 rupees in my bank account, but unfortunately, I wasn’t on a beach in an exotic island. I was deep in debt, broke and unemployed. That experience taught me something very valuable – inspiration is plenty, courage is rare.

Hampi Cycling Mansi Nikhil Inspiration

The desire to just give everything up and Go!

Last year, Mansi and I had been toying with the idea of quitting our jobs and taking off. We had ideas worked out on how we’d survive – we thought we’d freelance, like so many travelers do; we thought we’d work on a farm in exchange for board and food; we thought we’d blog and write for money. Now, one year down the line, we just started new jobs that pays us more money than we know what to do with, and we are still waking up each morning feeling miserably out of touch with reality. Each time we speak to people like Shivya, an unspoken word of regret passes between us. We are too ashamed to say it. We sold out.

The one question we always keep asking ourselves is this: “When do we do it?”

The answer, however, is not simple. In the past one year, our collective debt has almost doubled because we bought a car. This means that we need to work longer to become debt-free. I think we both have this glorious time-table in our heads that the day we are debt-free is the day we quit and explore. Unfortunately, the wait seems almost eternal.

For me, the consolation is the fact that if I ever wake up one fine day and decide to fly away, the woman I love will be with me. Without her, I would just resign myself to the never-ending hell of a corporate cubicle.

What about you? Have you ever felt the need to leave it all behind and wake up each morning in a different bed in a different city, looking out at a different horizon? Share your thoughts with us.

All images are by Mansi Pal.

Why We Travel

Travel

6570_147161582048_5944786_nWe often think that we are in control of our lives and our choices; decisions and inclinations are based on the intermingling of the right and left sides of our brains. But really, how many times have you had that feeling that you don’t deserve this or you are so happy you must have done something good in your past life to deserve this?  Your family accountant, priest or doctor is clearly not keeping a record of your rights and wrongs. Someone else is! This is the space where aliens, UFOs and urban legends thrive. What if your life is also part of that mystical world and your present, as you see it, is just a projection?

We get so lost in the daily rut of things that we do not realize why we do what we do. I am sure it’s not as simple as it sounds, but I love the enigma and the mystique that such a school of thought brings to my life – makes it a little less ordinary, atleast in my head. To feel, think and believe in such aimlessness and, in contrast, give my life some definition is what makes me travel. Travel is my umbilical cord to the uninhibited, trivial thoughts that feel very real and plausible in my head. In the words of Pico Iyer, “And we travel, in essence, to become young fools again – to slow time down and get taken in.”

The #TravelIST chat hosted by @bijoyv and @Living_Escaping last night re-kindled and reiterated my thoughts about escaping. No, that does not make us wonky heads wanting to get lost and roll around like a zorb, but to escape the monotony of our daily lives, where every day is like living like Bill Murray in Groundhog Day. What experiences we are exposed to, if we decide to have a chocolate milkshake one day and a cheesecake the next. It is travel that allows us to continuously alter our contexts and, at the same time, teaches us to keep moving. How long can a humming bird hold your attention when you meet a sloppy sea gull next? That is what we escape when we travel – we escape monotony and test the agility of our minds and improvise our lives every second.

Chalong Bay

Chalong Bay

Travel also brings out that person you always wanted to be but were either too conscious or too busy to be. We learn to let go and give up our thick skins. I am personally more uninhibited and more trustful when in faraway lands than the city I live in.  That jump into the unpredictable lake, the brief talk with the local about the tiny jars on their balcony, the most interesting hour-long conversation with a stranger you will never meet again and the ability to spend time with oneself plucking dead grass or gazing at the clouds without the support of a human being or the prison of a smartphone – all this comes to us naturally when we travel.

We travel to experiment, to lose our inhibitions, to learn, to discover, to find ourselves. How is travelling getting lost?

2013: Best Travel Moments

2013, Travel

Travel 2013

It’s finally happened. The Earth is rotating on its slightly tilted polar axis for one last time before it begins the arduous journey all over again, albeit slightly faster. 1.6 microseconds faster, to be exact, ensuring that 2014 reaches us just a bit sooner. Though this year had its share of ups and downs – a lot more people died in 2013 than the last three years combined – it’s been in many ways a fascinating 365 days. Personally, we think it’s been the best year of our lives so far.

Usually, a tribute post like this has a long list of names – people who have made our year so memorable. This time around, we thought we’d share the ‘moments’ that have left an indelible mark on us, and made us feel safe, secure, happy and peaceful.

Peace is something that the both of us have been struggling to attain in the past – an ethereal wisp of hope that used to vanish as soon as we neared it. We have both struggled against the tide and tried hard to stay afloat in a chaotic world filled with insecurities and temptations. But we never lost hope. More importantly, we did not overlook the signs that the Universe showed us. A lot of strange, seemingly unimportant incidents played their roles in succession, triggering a chain reaction that resulted in us meeting each other, falling in love and getting married to each other within the span of these magical 365 days.

We tested each other’s TQ (Travel Quotient) over quite a few trips, and decided we liked what we saw. And what a journey it has been! Incidentally, it’s the first time we both have traveled with the same person on consecutive trips. Many consecutive trips. And we love it!

So, here they are, some of the best moments of this year, from Mansi’s point of view, where we have fallen irreversibly more in love with each other, and deeper into the pit of peace:

Swimming in a lake in Vangni – Learnt the unpredictability of swimming in a natural water body like the lake  as against the controlled environment of a swimming pool.

Delhi – Introduced Delhi to Nikhil through my happy goggles and introduced my folks to authentic  sambhar chawal made by a kannadiga.

Gokarna – My first trip to Gokarna, back in 2012, was spent at the Namaste Café tattoo parlour or in the cottage resting my tattoo wound. So this year, the trip was spent rediscovering Gokarna, swimming in the spotless beaches & talking about life over numerous cups of coffee with our good friend Rohit.

Hampi – This trip to Hampi was especially memorable because this is what will be my last South Indian meal at the Mango Tree. But cycling around the ruins and cooling our heels and eyes under a massive boulder makes up up for it.

Goan weddings – 2013 also witnessed two weddings in the Mendes family (my Goa in Gurgaon). My best friend Joanna began the year by snagging a groom and Stalin ended it with a bride. And if you thought Goans are laid back & love their siestas, wait till you attend a Goan wedding. Boy, can they get any more hyper!

Bangkok – As a traveler I like being proven wrong about a place I had written off earlier. Bangkok was precisely that; I loved it for its exotic Thai street food. It’s tasty, cheap & clean. The only place where even the clear soup is tasty

Phuket – Phuket was heaven because we were tired, battered from the wedding & this place let us have what we were missing for weeks – Peace

PhiPhi Islands – We completed a circle with Phi Phi. Nikhil asked me out on a rainy Bombay night after having watched The Beach. I said yes because I was stoned.

Well, there you have it.

A relationship that began amidst the haze of a marijuana-induced banter went on to entrench itself in us, and fill us with those elusive things we were both searching for.

If nothing, this year will always be special for the both of us because of this one moment of truth:

Mansi and Nikhil

Just Married

Happy holidays everyone. May your roads never end.

En Route

En Route

This past weekend, Mansi & I decided to take our new bike out for a spin, and not the usual home-office-home route we do all week. We wanted to go on a long ride, beating the traffic and the chaos of the city. After a lot of research online, we settled on two places that were close to Bangalore – Panchapalli and Rayakottai – both of which are in Tamil Nadu, and within 100 kilometers from the city. If we left early in the morning, we could easily do this and be back home by 3.00 PM at the latest.

Considering the time we usually wake up, 7.00 AM was like a twilit dawn for us. Groggy and still half-asleep, we dressed, took two bottles of water and our camera and headed out of the house like zombies. The early morning chill woke us up and pretty soon, as we flew along the almost deserted Inner Ring Road towards Koramangala, we were wide awake and patting ourselves on the backs for such a good idea.

We reached Hosur Road in no time, and I was looking forward to testing my new Avenger 220 cc cruiser on the elevated expressway. We touched speeds of 120 kmph and the bike hardly broke a sweat, and I could feel the beast urging me to go faster. I resisted the temptation, and we covered the entire expressway in less than 2.5 minutes, and I could my heart spewing out adrenaline, making me shiver with excitement. I glanced back to see Mansi, hair all over the place, looking as excited as I was.

We went along at a decent pace, and reached the Attibele flyover by about 8.30 AM. We took a right turn into the Attibele main road and continued along little back roads, passing over into Tamil Nadu near the huge TVS factory. Once we passed TVS, the road widened out and the potholes became few and far between. We had entered on to State Highway 17A, which goes all the way to Salem, through Denkanikottai, where we were headed for breakfast. We passed through a lot of small villages and towns on the way, and the roads were absolutely stunning!

At 9.45 AM, we reached Denkanikottai, a small town that’s famous for pretty farmhouses that people from Bangalore have bought as investments. We had breakfast at Ganesh Bhavan – a very satisfying meal of pongal and masala dosa. We highly recommend this place for breakfast – it’s cheap, the food is great and the portions are very generous. From Denkanikottai, we left the state highway and turned into a small rural road that leads to Panchapalli and Rayakottai. Panchapalli is about 28 kms from Denkanikottai and all through this distance, we saw some absolutely breathtaking scenes of rural India, punctuated by fields of gold and green, mountains and hills in the distance, and some stunningly well-maintained roads.

Panchapalli Reservoir

Panchapalli Reservoir

The air noticeably changes the closer you get to Panchapalli. It’s lighter, cooler, and very clean. There was a slight chill in the air as we approached the Panchapalli reservoir, and without warning, the treeline on our left opened up to show us the majestic sight of the Panchapalli reservoir, surrounded by hills and lush green marshes all around. We were blown away by the scene. It was such a fantastic experience. We rode slowly and parked by the gates of the dam. We freshened up at a guest house nearby and walked up the length of the dam, taking pictures, talking about trivial things and just losing ourselves to the quiet and the solitude. There was not one person in sight, and we had the whole place to ourselves. We loved it!

The road to Panchapalli continues on for another 60 kilometers to reach the Hosur-Bangalore highway, and on the way, about 16 kilometers from the dam, is the town of Rayakottai. This isn’t a special town by any stretch of imagination, except for the ruins of Tipu Sultan’s palace on top of the hill. The name – Rayakottai – literally means “the king’s house”. Strangely, this fort isn’t mentioned in any official literature, there are no signs, no boards proclaiming its existence and the only way to find it is to ask the locals. In a bastardized tongue consisting of Tamil, Hindi and Kannada, we asked around and found the the narrow break in the shrubbery that leads to the hill, after getting lost a couple of times. We parked the bike halfway up the hill and trekked for about 30 minutes before reaching the summit. And it was worth every drop of sweat.

Rayakottai Ruins

Rayakottai Ruins

The ruins of the palace are absolutely magnificent, and we were struck by how closely it resembles Hampi. The place is tranquil, serene and a feeling of smallness comes over us as we passed under the natural arch of the biggest boulder we’d seen, and stood on the edge of a ruined parapet, looking out over the vast, majestic expanse of land before us. There was no limit to how far we could see from this vantage point. It felt like we were on a cloud, in heaven, looking down on humanity.

We spent some time exploring the fort, and started descending. It was around 1.30 PM when we started the ride back to Bangalore.We decided to stop for lunch at Hosur, and the 40 kilometer ride to Hosur took longer than expected as we stopped for fresh coconut water on the way.

After a lovely lunch at Hotel Tamil Nadu, we continued our journey on NH7, passing the Karnataka border a little after 3 PM. And as expected, we were back home by 4.15 PM, feeling tired (in a good way) and happy. It was a great road trip, and its ideal for anyone who wants to get away from the city for a day.

How to Reach:

By Bike/Car: Take Hosur Road (NH7), past the elevated expressway, and turn right under the Attibele Flyover. Continue straight for a couple of kilometers and the road branches into two. Go left, and continue past the TVS factory and on and on and on, until you come across a junction of 4 roads. There’s a yellow road sign on the left, indicating that Denkanikottai is about 18 kms to your right. Turn right, which gets you on to State Highway 17A, and ride up to Denkanikottai. Ask locals for directions to Panchapalli.

By Bus/Train/Flight/Walk/Apparation: Don’t know. Don’t care.

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Biking, Tamil Nadu, Travel

Bangkok: South-East Diaries [Part 1]

Bangkok, Travel
Mansi and Nikhil

Just Married

In the wee hours of the 11th of October, in a grassy field in Gurgaon, amidst the grasshoppers and the crickets and the bats, the Gods bore witness to our union, conferring on us the title of Man and Wife. We were married, finally, after all the preparations and the fights and the screaming sessions where we pulled out our hairs and the logistical nightmares that led up to the big day. Our hearts full and our wallets empty, we were pronounced married for all eternity by the saffron-clad priest, and an indelible pact was made in the light of his night-fire fueled by generous amounts of pure ghee, dry fruits and other assorted combustible materials. As the darkness fled and the first rays of sunlight peeked through the heavy grey clouds that sprayed us with a welcome rain, Mansi and I realized that we were dead.

I don’t mean dead dead. We were just so exhausted that we slept like a pair of logs back in our room. Unfortunately for us, this ordeal in Gurgaon was not the end of it. A week later, on a bright and sunny Wednesday in Bangalore, we had another ritual as part of the marriage. And about 300 people turned up to give us their blessings. By the time the day ended, our faces ached with the effort of the fake smiles, our legs ached from all the standing around and the walking and our heads hurt from all the socializing. That’s why, when we boarded our flight to Bangkok that night, we just passed out and snored loud enough to wake the dead, all the way to Suvarnabhumi International Airport.

Our first impression of Bangkok, as we stepped out of the terminal and were waiting for our car to pick us up, was “Meh.”

Thai Street Food

Guavas the size of cabbages

We weren’t impressed by the bleak, concrete architecture of the airport terminal and we had spent too much time in Mumbai to be taken unawares by the hot and humid weather. But as we made our way to our hotel in the cab, we quickly changed our minds. Beautiful roads, obedient traffic and breath-taking landscapes greeted us all the way to the city proper and when we entered the city, the sights and sounds of the food stalls on the street were simply delectable. Shopping carts everywhere, loaded with clothes, electronic goods, questionable meat and duck eggs were all around us. And our hotel was nestled in a small gully just off a street filled with food carts. Mansi never saw any of this as she had passed out again in the cab, the minute we left the airport. She woke up in time to see our hotel approaching, looked around the food stalls and said, “I’m hungry but too sleepy to eat.”

We spent our first seven hours in Bangkok sleeping off a month’s exhaustion. It was a fitful sleep punctuated by a loud thunderstorm and torrential rains that lashed our windows with pent-up fury. When we woke up late in the evening, the rain had passed, the sun was out and the humidity hung in the air like a warm blanket. We walked out of the hotel, and had barely walked ten feet when our growling tummies made us halt at a stall selling seafood noodle soup. Given that it was our first taste of authentic Thai food, we ordered just one and decided to share it. The steaming bowl of clear soup with fried noodles and sparkly white seafood made us weep with joy. And each gulp of the soup was a little sip of heaven. Octopus and fish, prawns and squids, we ate them all and thus began the first half of our honeymoon – a memorable three-day binge eating spectacle.

Damnoen Saduak Floating Market

Damnoen Saduak Floating Market

Between walking around the bustling Prathu Nam market, eating fresh fruits, boiled squid and fried rice, we shopped till we dropped, with Mansi doubling her wardrobe in those three days. I realized the disadvantage of being big and tall – no one seemed to have clothes my size. I settled for a couple of shorts and a tee-shirt that I would have to grow into. Or shrink into, once I lose weight.
On the second day in Bangkok, we went to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market as part of an organized day-tour. Being driven through rural Thailand was a fantastic experience, a surreal memory that won’t die any time soon. There were moments of real peace – the silence and the quiet penetrating into our souls. It was magical. The floating markets themselves were a chaotic mix of tourists, overpriced souvenirs and very tasty food. Though we opted out of the 150 Bh boat ride through the market, we walked on the pier and window-shopped for curiosities that seemed too good to be true. Our first taste of dragonfruit is worth a mention and so is Mansi’s first dreamcatcher.

Bridge on the River Kwai

Bridge on the River Kwai

On our way to the Kanchanaburi Tiger Temple from Damnoen Saduak, after a brief halt for coffee at the Elephant Village’s Monkey Café, we stopped for lunch on the River Kwai. This was perhaps the best buffet meal I’ve ever had in my life. Maybe because I was so hungry, maybe it was the tranquility of eating on a river barge, but the food was just so good! I loaded my plate for fried rice and noodles and three different kinds of Thai curry more times than I remember. It made it difficult for me to walk when we reached the Bridge on the River Kwai, where and about which, the movie was shot. For someone who knew bits and pieces of the history (having watched the movie a really long time ago), it was an I-was-there moment. After almost being run over by the toy train that plies of these tracks over the bridge, we waddled our way on full stomachs to the car, headed to the Kanchanaburi Tiger Temple.

Tiger Temple, Thailand

One wildcat with another

Being led to a docile tiger, being made to pose next to it for the obligatory photograph and being made to repeat the process with ten tigers seems like a bit much now, but when we were doing it, the whole evening seemed so much magical. Tigers are really really big. I looked tiny next to these giant cats, which should give people a sense of scale. They are huge! And to actually stroke their rough fur, while getting the moment captured by one of the hundred volunteers was quite an experience. I’m very grateful for having done that.

On our last day in Bangkok, we (read as: Mansi) shopped a lot in the morning and afternoon, and in the evening, made the 30-minute walk from Prathu Nam to Phatpong to see the night market. We knew it was Bangkok’s red light district, but we weren’t ready to see sex toys being sold on the road side and we definitely weren’t ready for nude women beckoning us from the doorways of their strip clubs to experience a “pussy show”. We gave in to sales pressure and entered a strip joint to see three naked women with horsehair nipple protectors standing around steel poles, waiting for customers. We didn’t wait around for the show and quite literally, ran out. A quiet drink with good music and a tuk-tuk ride back to our hotel late at night wrapped up a fantastic trip.

We headed on to Phuket the next day for the second half of our honeymoon and Mansi will write about our adventures there. We will definitely go back to Bangkok as part of our SE Asia backpacking tour – but if not, then we definitely go back just for the roadside sausages.

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New Delhi: Revisiting The Elephant Graveyard

Gurgaon, New Delhi, Travel
Riding a Bullet

Mansi’s brother showing me the ropes on his Royal Enfield

When I was a kid, I used to watch The Lion King every week, without fail. It became so much of an obsession that I realized one day that I had learned the dialogues by heart and could repeat them word for word. (For instance, the opening line of the movie is, “Life’s not fair, isn’t it?” said by Scar, as he catches a little mouse for dinner.)

The movie had so much of an impact on me that I began associating things I saw in it to things I saw in real life. After a 9-month ordeal in New Delhi in 2009-10, I associated the city with the Elephant Graveyard in The Lion King – a dreaded place where no one went, and a place of evil where no one was ever happy. My time in New Delhi was the worst 9 months of my life. I haven’t been more miserable ever. So, once I returned back to normalcy and battled depressions and won, I vowed never to go back there again. Ever. But fate, it seemed, had a few ironies up its sleeve.

Mansi hails from Gurgaon, Haryana – an integral part of the Delhi-NCR, and when she insisted that I accompany her to Delhi, I was very hesitant. She convinced me that she was going to make me see the place through her happy goggles, and was very confident that I’d like the trip. Well, given that I am in love with her and have decided to spend the rest of my life traveling with her, I decided to face my fear and visit the Elephant Graveyard with her. And I was so glad I did, because she not only made me see Delhi in a whole new light, she even made me admit that I had fun on the trip.

We spent half our time in Gurgaon, meeting her old friends and revisiting her old haunts. A lovely breakfast at Sakley’s in Galleria set the tone for a lovely weekend. We went visiting the famous Delhi Haat, where we spent a very satisfying evening eating street food from all around the country and window shopping for colorful, over-priced junk. A highlight of the trip was the visit to the world-renowned flea market at Sarojini Nagar, where Mansi found a treasure trove of Desigual clothes and we spent all of our trip’s budgets shopping for clothes, shoes and other things.

We stayed at Mansi’s parents’ house in Gurgaon and I immediately made her mom, dad and elder brother fall hopelessly in love with me through my charm and my south Indian cooking skills. The sambhar I cooked for lunch, I am told, was finger-licking good.

The trip also coincided with the birthday of one of Mansi’s closest friends – Joanna. We dropped in on her birthday party, surprised the living daylights out of her and spent a very nice evening catching up and socializing with her old friends. I really did have a wonderful trip, and I never thought I’d say this, but Delhi isn’t so bad. True, I kept spotting rapists everywhere, but I guess that’s the charm of living in a nation’s capital. Whatever that means.

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